Caliente

CALIENTE

A WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN

Caliente

(773-772-4355)

Had I followed my first inclination, I would have walked out of Caliente, at 2556 West Fullerton and looked elsewhere. The restaurant was empty, not a good sign. There was only one waitress in sight, who told us that some of the entrees were sold out, and there were no desserts, either.

But, I was there to review. So, I took a second look, and then things came more into focus.

What appeared sparse at first glance, was actually a studied decor highlighted by the art of Frieda Kahlo, coupled with stark posters alluding to Mexico’s Day of the Dead. This was also the only restaurant I’ve been to where the table centerpiece is a religious votive candle.

I should say I was drawn to Caliente because of the good experience at their older location on Sheridan Road. So, putting all of these first impressions aside, we scanned the menu and made selections of what was not sold out on the particular Sunday night of our visit.

There is talent in the Caliente kitchen, and seasonings live up to the restaurant’s name. Queso Flameado brought chopped portobellos, roasted peppers and melted cheese waiting to be scooped and wrapped into warmed tortillas. Mussels in a saffron laced broth were plump and grit free. An order of enchiladas, actually a dinner portion, was easily split among the four of us for another appetizer. The somewhat dry grilled chicken was masked by its excellent sauce.

But,  what the menu calls paella is not authentic, with the same Spanish rice that shows up in other entrees. Ample shrimp and chicken, as well as good seasoning made it a flavorful, if not somewhat dry, choice. A grilled steak and chicken combo was similar in taste to the enchiladas, though the steak was overcooked, and the chicken nearly so.

Without any desserts and a bar that offered only soda pop, we were in and out in less than an hour. I will say that by the time we left, the place began to fill up, and our waitress never lost her award winning smile. Expect to spend about $45 a couple. Caliente is at 2556 West Fullerton and has a K/RATING of 16/20.