Roy's

720 North State, Chicago
312-787-7599
Broadcast  February 22, 2002

CHICAGO (WBBM Newsradio 780) -- No question that a friendly "Aloha" greeting is welcome on a wintry evening in Chicago. That's how guests are greeted at Roy's, the Chicago edition of a Honolulu restaurant chain at 720 North State. Not so welcome is the nearly $10 charge for a mediocre glass of the house Pinot Noir, served under Roy's name but with no other identification. Not only is it overpriced, but it is too warm.

The menu leans toward seafood, but meats and a few vegetarian selections are also listed. Roy's Classics are designated with Japanese iconography, but whether specials or not, everything we tasted was excellent.

Start with an appetizer such as crisp shrimp and seafood triangles. These Asian dumplings are filled with a chop of shrimp and red snapper, plated with a peppery soy sauce and come four to the order. As our server pointed out, Roy's appetizers are designed for sharing, and it seems to work well enough. So do crab cakes in a light butter of sauce. They are a spicy, but the sweet tang of crab meat manages to come through. Other first course selections include smaller portions of some of the entrees, such as grilled salmon, butterfish or Szechwan spiced St. Louis ribs. Additionally, there is a dim sum style plating of a quartet of choices.

As for entrees, the seafood is uniformly a winner at Roy's. Black cod, called butterfish on Roy's menu is a soft, moist, flaking fish that almost dissolved in the mouth. Sticky rice, about the size and shape of a hockey puck garnishes the plate along with bok choy and a mild ginger sauce.

The grilled salmon is sweet, with a ponzu sauce, stacked with an array of steamed vegetables on the side. If anyone ever tells you white fish is too boring, steer them to Roy's for whitefish in a roasted macadamia nut crust. It sits inside  a ring of lobster butter sauce with garlic mashed potatoes on the side. Among other nauticals, blackened ahi tuna is accompanied by wasabi style mustard sauce while halibut gets a crushed nut coating.

As for meat and poultry, duck might be served Chinese style with a five-spice anise
or perhaps in a fruity glaze. Beef short ribs are glazed in mustard and honey, lamb is usually served with a braised shank and a grilled rack paired together, while beef eaters can enjoy a rib eye steak in a sesame and soy glaze.

Desserts include banana creme brulee and tropical fruits. But the standout must be a chocolate soufflé with a warm chocolate liquid center. It is a knockout. Expect to spend about $65 a couple for three courses plus add-ons.  Avoid the overpriced Pinot Noir by the glass. Otherwise, Roy's at 720 North State Street has a K/RATING of  19.75/20.

AMBIANCE/DECOR  4/4
HOSPITALITY  5/5 
FOOD   10/10    
VALUE .75/1 
K/RATING 19.75/20