JACK RABBIT

WBBM's Shermen Kaplan Reporting

JACK RABBIT
A NEWSRADIO 780 WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN
BROADCAST SEPTEMBER 12, 2008

K/RATING of 16.5/20. AMBIANCE 3/4 HOSPITALITY 4.5/5 FOOD 9/11 (773-989-9000)

There seems a sense of whimsy about Jack Rabbit, a Southwestern American style restaurant at 4603 North Lincoln Avenue. The menu is fairly short, and unfortunately, when we visited, a handful of selections were not available.

Still, what we were able to order was pleasant enough, and in a few cases, above expectation for such casual dining. Specifically, Jack Rabbit’s grilled pizza centers on duck sausage dotting a flat bread crust with roasted peppers and asadero, a somewhat bland Mexican white cheese that is easily adaptable because it melts so easily.

This pizza is grilled rather than oven baked. The difference becomes evident in the nature of the crust. But, rather than becoming over analytical, let me simply state that this should be a required course for anyone visiting Jack Rabbit.

I’m inclined to say much the same thing for something as simple as the house fajitas. I’m usually not so impressed by fajitas, which have become almost a generic style of cooking. I tasted skirt steak fajitas, savory meat with caramelized onions as part of the flavor. There’s also chicken or portobello mushroom fajita. Fortuitously, there is no sign of rabbit on the Jack Rabbit menu.

Grilled shrimp with roasted garlic, a fish of the day and chiptole rubbed ribs are among other choices. What the menu identifies as a rib eye steak has been changed to sirloin, much less interesting as many steak lovers will attest. Proving that less is more, goat cheese enchiladas, three to the order, are better as appetizer than entree. It’s simply an excess of riches. As for desserts, the menu lists banana cream pie among selections. I was not to be dissuaded, despite our server’s suggestion to choose something else.

The banana flavor is robust enough, but as our server rightly pointed out, the kitchen does not have this one worked out. Think more a flan or thick mousse, rather than traditional banana cream.

There is a collection of beers by the bottle, none on tap…and some wines. Parking can be tight. Expect to spend about $45 a couple. Jack Rabbit is at 4603 North Lincoln Avenue, and has a

K/RATING of 16.5/20. AMBIANCE 3/4 HOSPITALITY 4.5/5 FOOD 9/11 (773-989-9000)

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