Adesso

3332 North Broadway, Chicago
773-868-1516
Broadcast March 9, 2007

CHICAGO (WBBM) -- Adesso, at 3332 North Broadway, has an industrial lunchroom  look of brushed aluminum in furnishings and fixtures, understated minimalism as one might find on a small side street in Milan’s fashion district.

Its cooking draws on Italian tradition and some innovations. Look at the menu and you will see steamed mussels in white wine and an herbal broth. The trick is to let the mussels almost breathe in the steam, plumping up without becoming watery, so that they do not lose their flavor.

Among not to be missed appetizers, arancini, or fried rice balls stuffed with beef and gravy are simply delicious. The flavors are well married, the texture firm so that they do not fall apart when cut into with a fork.  Fried calamari are light and delicate, energized by a good marinara. Grilled octopus may be even better when it comes to subtle flavor, sprinkled as the cut up pieces are with a good virgin olive oil and lemon juice.

Adesso’s pastas include linguini and seafood in fresh chunky tomatoes and red pepper sauce. It’s sharp, and likable. Try eggplant roll ups in marinara stuffed with ground beef, plus mozzarella and parmesan cheese for another flavor rush.

Spaghetti and meatballs with fresh basil in the red sauce is simple and direct, while penne in garlic, olive oil and white wine is contrasted with the bitter taste of rapini. 

As for meat and seafood, beef short ribs are especially good, plated with creamy polenta flavored by caramelized shallots. I think this is one of the more inventive menu choices. Halibut is roasted, set with crisp prosciutto, not so salty as bacon, plus mashed potatoes, grilled asparagus and a sauce centered on balsamic vinegar reduced to a syrup.

Desserts will vary and the restaurant is BYOB with a small $4 corkage fee. Parking can be tight in this dense Lakeview neighborhood. Expect to spend about $55 a couple, give or take. Adesso is at 3332 North Broadway and has a K/RATING of  18.5/20

AMBIANCE 4/4   
HOSPITALITY 4.5/5   
FOOD   9.5/11  
K/RATING 18.5/20