DEL RIO
A NEWSRADIO 780 WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN
BROADCAST SEPTEMBER 5, 2008
(847-432-4608)
It may be the 21st Century but inside Highwood’s Del Rio Italian restaurant, it might as well be 40 years ago. Admittedly, menu prices are current with today, but otherwise Del Rio, at 228 Green Bay Road is a classic.
The old fashioned family style cooking is evident with veal or chicken Parmesan. Each comes steaming hot to the table in crockery in which it was baked. A layer of bubbly cheese covers two slices of meat in a red sauce so thick you could almost cut it. The flavor leaves the acid bite of tomatoes, with translucent onions and maybe a touch of pepper on the tongue.
Order the house named Veal Del Rio for something akin to Veal Milanese, breaded and sautéed cutlets in lemon butter sauce. It’s the closest Del Rio may have to a minimalist style of cooking.
Take another path with Shrimp Scampi, awash in buttery rich white wine sauce. I’m guessing that the sauté pan in which the shrimp are quickly cooked has been deglazed to release more intense flavor. Right or not, the shrimp are tasty as can be.
Chicken Cacciatore is yet another casserole dish, the chicken bathed in rich, characteristic tomato sauce with mushrooms. Cacciatore is a word which suggests hunting, though these are ordinary sliced button mushrooms in the sauce. But, I won’t let details get in the way of another stalwart appetite appeaser.
There was only one real disappointment during our visit. Risotto completely misses the mark, without anything close to the characteristics which should be there.
Aside from its old fashioned dining room and menu approach, Del Rio is renowned for a wine list that should be the envy of much more expensive, fine dining restaurants. For those who want truly old vintages, from a list that is thick as a phone book, Del Rio is the place, and in most selections, an extraordinary bargain.
There is valet parking. Service is well paced and solicitous, but reservations are taken only for parties of six or more.. Expect to spend about $80 a couple for three courses, plus add ons. Del Rio is at 228 Green Bay Road in Highwood and has a K/RATING of 17//20.
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