LA TACHE

 LA TACHE
A NEWSRADIO 780 WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN
BROADCAST  AUGUST 29, 2008

Like it or not, there is no question …summer is fading into the past. Of course there are going to be warm days ahead, the kind that are still perfect for outdoor dining.

 As you think about squeezing the last juice from summer’s fruit, consider La Tache, an erstwhile French bistro at 1475 West Balmoral in Andersonville. 

The patio spills out onto the sidewalk, fenced off for a handful of tables. Inside, La Tache reminds me of a tailored parlor with its shoulder high dark wood wainscoting, mustard walls and an antique clock, its hands frozen in the memory of times past.

The menu plays with some aspects of  bistro classics, even as its expands to include more contemporary, and even basic American references including Cajun Salmon and Caesar salad.

We began by transforming a Vegetarian Napoleon entree into an appetizer for four. It’s a very imaginative take on tradition, with fresh roasted seasonal vegetables stacked Napolean style and touched with the accent of roasted red pepper.

Other first  course choices range from the classic French onion, this one endowed with the sweet breath of apple cider, snails with creamy goat cheese as an alternative to traditional garlic butter, twinned crab and cod cakes, and codfish brandade. 

 This latter is served with toast points and a hint of truffles to help flavor the brandade, essentially a milk bath with seasonings.

Speaking of truffles, the La Tache version of fries with truffle aoili is as good as those in much pricier restaurants. The fries are easy to nibble along with entrees that range from a variety of  meats, poultry and seafood Roast duck breast is seared, but not as pink inside as I think it should have been. Fennel matchsticks, potatoes and baby veggies make up the garnish.

Steak au poivre suffers from way too much pepper. There’s really not much more that needs too be said about that.

As for seafood, bourride, a fish soup much like Bouillabaisse, but without the saffron is a weekly special on Sundays, with good flavors and seafood variety. Whole fish such as halibut is served in a mashed potato crust with a white wine sauce and garlic aioli for flavor accent.

 Among desserts profiteroles and tarte tatin are just about perfect as is the easy mannered and informed service. Parking can be tight in this busy neighborhood. La Tache is at 1475 West Balmoral and has a K/RATING of 18/20.

AMBIANCE  4/4    HOSPITALITY 5/5    FOOD  9/11   
(773-334-7168)

Read more Sherman Kaplan Restaurant Reviews at wbbm780.com and  in
North Shore Magazine