PERENNIAL
A NEWSRADIO 780 WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN
BROADCAST AUGUST 8,2009
Perennial, at 1800 North Lincoln Avenue, at the juncture of Lincoln, Wells and Clark, is a little too new to be declared a perennial success, but this American upscale bistro sure appears to be on track in that direction.
It’s a visual mix of standing birch bark, dark woods and stone in a setting which may defy description by a non architect, but still looks great to my eye. Comfort matches the look, though getting out from behind one of the trestle style dining tables requires a bit of a Cirque de Soliel performance.
Never mind all that, because skinny twisting aside, the food, service and style make this minor annoyance worth the effort. Among starters smoked sturgeon brings four pieces of the tasty fish along with a mound of fingerling potato salad and lemon creme fraiche. Peekytoe crab salad is mild flavored even with a garnish of pickled cucumbers and ginger oil. Among soups, the house gazpacho has some pepper bite, but is otherwise a thoughtful balance of flavors.
Moving to entrees, rainbow trout is the highlighted menu feature and justifiably so. Cuts of trout are wrapped in Neuske bacon and plated with sweet pea emulsion. Carrot puree and English peas add more color to the plate than flavors...all in all a nice balance.
Sea scallops are similarly excellent and buttery smooth. A side cannolli knock off is stuffed with braised beef short rib. The scallops sit on a bed of mushrooms so fresh and flavorful you might think they were gathered just hours earlier.
Another nautical, King fish, is roasted with shrimp, bok choy and shitakes in a coconut water and mussel broth. While not so flavorful as I expected, this dish shows some of the creativity which is developing in the Perennial kitchen.
Desserts include a deconstructed chocolate cake with white chocolate Bailey’s Irish creme mousse, a small scoop of coffee ice cream and a chocolate rich lava cake with wet fudge center.
Service could not be better and there is valet parking. Expect to spend about $80 a couple for three courses plus add ons. Perennial is at 1800 North Lincoln, though parking is on the Clark Street side. Perennial has a K/RATING of 18.5/20.
AMBIANCE 4/4 HOSPITALITY 5/5 FOOD 9.5/11
(312-981-7070)
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