4749 North Rockwell, Chicago

CHICAGO (WBBM Newsradio 780) -- Tagine, at 4749 North Rockwell takes its name from the Moroccan pot which serves double duty as cooking and serving vessel for simmered meats, poultry or vegetables. The restaurant is a double store front, neatly appointed, with economical use of paint, decorative art and white table cloths where countertop prices more or less prevail.

Appetizers, soups and salads mirror the culinary culture of Morocco, with the likes of briwats, essentially a deep fried phyllo dough filled with a fine chop of shrimp. The flavor is fine, with aftertastes of coriander and cumin among impressions. Familiar vegetable purees such as roasted eggplant with a smoky flavor, or mild hummos, are a common denominator of Middle Eastern dining, spread on plumped wedges of warm pita bread. A combination platter will include tastes of those, as well as spinach seasoned with garlic and lemon juice, and grilled red peppers sautéed in oil.

Harari soup is an essential part of a Moroccan meal. This somewhat thick gruel has very soft flavors, especially that of lentils, though with meat ingredients, this is not a lentil soup, which is a separate choice on the Tagine menu.

The several specific tagines on the menu carry names which imply their origins in the homes, souks and casbah kitchens of North Africa, much like a cultural guide. Kasbah Tagine with its promise of lamb, onions, figs, raisins, dates and Moroccan spices is typical of how ingredients are slowly cooked and simmered.

The menu also includes several versions of couscous, with vegetables or meat, bedded on what could be considered the national grain of Morocco.

There is a quartet of kebabs, the ubiquitous grilled and skewered meats found across the Levant and further East stretching all the way to Northern India.

Desserts include sweet pastries and creme caramel. Diners may bring their own wine, but I think the house mint tea is perfect. Expect to spend about $40 a couple or less, plus tax and tip. Tagine is at 4749 North Rockwell, a few doors south of Lawrence Avenue. Parking is tight. Tagine has a K/RATING of 17/20.

AMBIANCE 3/4
HOSPITALITY 5/5
FOOD 8/10
VALUE 1/1
K/RATING of 17/20