BIG JONES
773-275-5725A NEWSRADIO 780 WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN
BROADCAST JULY 4, 2007
I never expected to order a hamburger at Big Jones at 5347 North Clark Street in Andersonville. The restaurant specializes in Southern Low Country style cooking. Our server readily admitted that the burger is off that particular chart.
When I saw one at another table, I had to try it. It’s Tallgrass Beef from grass fed cattle. Just for the record, that’s Cowboy Bill Kurtis’ Kansas ranch beef cattle.
Its steak texture and flavor holds up beneath melted Fontina cheese, grilled mushrooms and onions as well as garlic mayo and a house style Worcestershire. It comes on a toasted Parker House style bun which only makes big, bigger, if not better. Fried onions, okra and potatoes gird the rest of the plate.
There are more sandwiches with Southern accents, clearly meant for sizable appetites including a shrimp roll, fried green tomatoes with bacon, even gator sausage seasoned with jalapeno peppers for extra snap.
For appetizers, we began with crab and mushroom pie and barbecue shrimp. The barbecue sauce is somewhat tepid; I like the sliced Sally Lunn bread accompaniment. The mushroom pie is tasty with minced blue crab and a light mustard olive sauce. It’s stuffed inside a solid bit of pastry, which some could think too heavy. I rather like this approach.
As for entrees, in addition to sandwiches, Baby Back ribs come from the famed Nieman Ranch with the house Worcestershire. Braised pork and Tallgrass beef steak practically overpower their plates. Surprisingly, an order of Sorghum glazed chicken with grits is on the skimpy side, though that sorghum molasses does flavoring wonders for the chicken.
As for desserts, Red Velvet Cake is right out of the Carolina Low Country, Strawberry shortcake is the real deal, and Mississippi Mud Pie is pretty much self explanatory. Our choice, brandy raisin bread pudding had no such taste, and could have used more sauce.
There’s not much in the way of Southern decor. Servers seem genuinely caring. Parking can be tight. Expect to spend about $60 a couple for three courses, plus drinks, tax and tip. Big Jones at 5347 North Clark Street has a K/RATING of 17.5/20.
AMBIANCE 3/4 HOSPITALITY 5/5 FOOD 9.5/11
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