TALLULAH

TALLULAH 
(773-942-7585) 
4539 North Lincoln Avenue
A WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN 
BROADCAST MAY 23, 2008 


Tallulah, at 4539 North Lincoln Avenue joins an eclectic crowd in the Lincoln Square restaurant community, adding its own American Bistro style. Diners are rather crowded in some parts of the tandem dining rooms; the further back space seems to be more accommodating. 

Warm weather also opens a chic patio, making Tallulah fine for outdoor dining. There is culinary talent in the Tallulah kitchen, with hardly any misses during our single visit. The more notable was an order of oxtail gnocchi. Flavors are not as complex as I would like, granted the inclusion of fiddle head ferns and mushrooms. 

The highly seasoned braised meat overpowers all else. I’m wondering what this dish would be like if the gnocchi were stuffed with a sharp aged cheese. Appetizers are a rather enterprising list. Seared ahi tuna is served as sashimi with an unusual puree of carrots and pickled ginger instead of the usual slices. Among other first course choices, the mushroom and blue cheese tart just about knocks it out of the park. 

The crust is perfect, flavors well married, with sherried vinaigrette informing a side of piled watercress. Tallulah’s menu lends itself to grazing with an appetizer or two, soup and salad creating some standout ideas. Otherwise, picking from entrees is similarly rewarding. Seared marlin was a recent special. The fish is meaty, mild flavored and when paired with a mango salsa, it was a breath of culinary fresh air. In another choice, sliced duck breast is seared medium rare. There is hardly a trace of fat, and no loss of flavor thanks to a sprightly kumquat chutney and a companion spring roll plumped with duck confit and goat cheese. 

Among other ideas, seared scallops are rich and buttery, but an accompanying risotto is short of a desired creamy texture. For dessert, we were wowed by chocolate mousse with the sharp sting of ancho chile infusion. Drinks include a few boutique beers and accessible wines, several by the glass. 

Service is fine, and there is nearby lot parking. Expect to spend about $75 a couple plus add ons. 

Tallulah is at 4539 North Lincoln and has a K/RATING of 18.5/20. 

AMBIANCE 3.5/4 HOSPITALITY 5/5 FOOD 10/11