SOPRANOS
A WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN
(773-871-0990)
2901 North Sheffield
BROADCAST MAY 9, 2008
The idea of naming a Chicago restaurant Sopranos, after the popular cable television series strikes me as almost ludicrous. But, despite that, Sopranos, at 2901 North Sheffield has much to recommend it.
The menu is typical Italian American, and even includes a kid-friendly “make your own” pizza, which might be especially appealing for family dining this Mother’s Day weekend.
We began recently with a couple of decent enough starters. Caprese Salad is probably better when tomatoes are more in season. Still, with an attractive presentation, mozzarella rounds and an accent of balsamic vinegar, this one did not last long.
Other first course choices range from fried calamari to a lavish bruschetta presentation that includes goat cheese clusters with tomatoes and fresh basil. There are several pizzas with crust that is not as thin as now trendy New York style. But, a wealth of toppings and good flavor are readily evident. Sometimes, simple is better, which guided our chocie of the basic Margherita, with tomato slices circling the pizza’s surface.
Soprano’s collection of pasta oddly does not include one of our favorites, linguine with clam sauce. But, the kitchen was willing to experiment a bit and came up with a reasonable facsimile. The difference was that the sauce was the house marinara rather than anything with more affinity.
Among other pasta’s, gnocchi have a fresh made quality. These are rather light, without the density that is the hallmark of other versions. They have a spinach filling, which spills out as flavors mix with chunks of chicken, mushrooms and roasted red pepper strips, as well as Italy’s culinary trinity of olive oil, garlic and Parmesan.
As for entrees, Veal Vesuvio brings the expected flavor with the added indulgence of scaloppini instead of chicken as tradition calls for. Other choices range from chicken to veal piccatta, a couple of steaks, salmon in a Grand Marnier style sauce and baked halibut with crab meat and a mixed collection of seasonings.
Conveniently for a neighborhood where parking is a premium, Soprano’s at 2901 North Sheffield has its own private valet lot. Expect to spend about $60 a couple plus add ons. Soprano’s has a K/RATING of 18/20.
AMBIANCE 4/4 HOSPITALITY 5/5 FOOD 9/11
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