MERKAT A LA PLANXA
A WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN
BROADCAST APRIL 18, 2008
(312-765-0524)
When it comes to a dramatic entrance, it’s hard to beat Mercat a la Planxa, the newest Chicago tapas restaurant in the Blackstone Hotel at 638 South Michigan Avenue.
You’ll come into a crowded bar and lounge, then up a swirling staircase into the restaurant’s enormous dining room. There are visual references to Spanish surrealistic art, an open kitchen set on a platform above the main dining room, and clear light bulbs suspended from the cavernous ceiling.
None of this, however, manages to upstage the view from floor to ceiling windows looking out toward Michigan Avenue and Grant Park.
Planxa refers to tapas, small Spanish nibbles grilled on a flat iron surface. The menu is extensive, and offers some insight into Spanish culinary culture.
The idea is to socialize, with a little drink, a little food, and lots of conversation, all the while enjoying the cheerful eye candy of the dining room, and its diners.
I sensed real authenticity from the menu. Begin with a selection of cured meats, emphasizing the Spanish love affair with ham in several of its varieties. Couple a taste or two with one of the cheese platters.
One brought slices of goat cheese called garrotxa with a spread of caramelized evaporated milk, and thin slices of Granny Smith apples. The flavor combo is delicious; you might even want to add a platter of fried peppers, more mild than hot.
Elsewhere from a large listing, try a flatbread or two, such as one with shrimp, chorizo and a garbanzo bean puree, or even more flavorful beef shortribs with horseradish and bacon accents.
Consider some other small or larger portions. Braised rabbit is hidden inside stylized ravioli with sage accent and a clutch of brandied cherries at the bottom of the dish.
Garlic shrimp, small grilled onions filled with cheese, classic Spanish style potatoes, or warm spinach with pine nuts and apples demonstrate the far reaching imagination.
Three or four tapas, or two and a larger entree and dessert should make up a comfortable meal. Expect to spend about $70 a couple plus drinks, tax and tip. There is valet parking.
Mercat a la Planxa is at 638 South Michigan in the Blackstone and has a K/RATING of 19/20.
AMBIANCE 4/4 HOSPITALITY 5/5 FOOD 10/11
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