Prosecco

PROSECCO

710 N. Wells St. (312) 951-9500

A WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN
BROADCAST FEBRUARY 22. 2008

A glass of sparking wine from which the restaurant takes its name greets diners at Prosecco, at 710 North Wells Street. The dimly lit dining areas suggest candle light and romance in an Old World Setting. 

           
First course choices includes a mixed antipasti of sliced Italian salamis and other meats, cheeses and vegetables. Our server recommended grilled baby octopus and calamari, chilled with fingerling potatoes, beans and tomato, drizzled with peppery  balsamic laced vinaigrette. It proved to be a good start.

           
Other antipasti include a setup of mussels and little necks in saffron cream, and a collection from what the menu calls The Carpaccio Bar. Things become more ornate and complex with the likes of two versions of stylized beef carpaccio. A trio of seafood brings ahi tuna with  blood orange and aged balsamic reduction, white tuna and caviar in truffle oil, and smoked salmon tartare with lemon zest and dill among flavor components.

           
Several salads beckon, including fresh as can be bufalo mozzarella with roasted peppers and aged balsamic.

           
Rich risotto creations and pastas include cavatelli with large shrimp and roasted red peppers in saffron with asparagus. Linguini with cremini mushrooms and roasted pine nuts with spinach and grape tomatoes shows off  earthy flavorings.

           
Among seafood, grilled wild salmon is set with lentils and spinach in lemon infused olive oil. Zuppa di Pesce needed more zip in the zuppa, with a collection of all too bland ingredients despite the menu’s description of saffron and tomato broth.

Back on land, things improve. Cornish hen is stuffed with polenta porcinis and chestnuts with an accent of ground sausage and black truffles. Veal saltimbocca evokes classical influences of Italian cookery, while rack of lamb or beef steak underscores something even more intense.

While our server did what he could to make things pleasant, somehow our entree orders were set aside, causing a lengthy wait between courses. Expect to spend about $85 a couple plus add ons.

Prosecco is at 710 North Wells Street and has a K/RATING of 17.5/20.

AMBIANCE  4/4    HOSPITALITY 4.5/5     FOOD  9/11