SEMIRAMIS
(773-279-8900)
A WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN
BROADCAST JANUARY 18, 2007
Semiramis, at 4639 North Kedzie Avenue takes no reservations, which is normally a turnoff. But, the host/owner who welcomed us was so cordial, as he told us there would be at least a 30 minute delay because of a large private party. The four of us decided to wait, considering it a lesser inconvenience than starting over elsewhere.
It was an easy wait, made so by the offer of an appetizer platter in a seating area outside the dining room, where another party was similarly parked. Semiramis is BYOB, easily rectified by a convenient carry-out store across Kedzie Avenue. The time passed quickly with the wine, the appetizers and the conversation until we were finally seated.
Semiramis is a Lebanese restaurant, in a neighborhood where Middle Eastern dining and culture are the norm. The one disappointment was the absence of any seafood, but the strict vegetarian in our foursome made do with the entree portion of the same appetizer platter we had earlier.
Creamy hummos, smoky babaganoush, grape leaves filled with savory rice, green tabbouleh salad with chopped parsley, bulgar, fresh mint and lemon among ingredients, and deep fried falafel balls were a tasty reprise.
Lebanese dining is communal, and portions at Semiramis are large enough to share. A mixed grill of beef and chicken kebabs, plus kefta, ground lamb and beef with a blend of seasonings is served with puffy rice pilaf and grilled vegetables. The steak and chicken have a fresh charred taste, the kefta has more in the way of aromatic seasonings.
The rest of the menu presents various fashions of meat as well as spit roasted chawarma, like Greek gyros, in either beef, lamb or chicken versions.
Desserts include baklava and kindred pastries which indulge the sweet sensibilities. The dining room is dimly lit, economically decorated with Middle Eastern style wall tapestries. Semiramis is at 4639 North Kedzie with ample street parking. Even though it takes no reservations, I’m making an exception here to recognize otherwise exceptional hospitality and budget dining. Expect to spend about $40 a couple, plus add ons. Semiramis has a K/RATING of 19.5/20
AMBIANCE 3.5/4 HOSPITALITY 5/5 FOOD 11/11