TRATTORIA TRULLO
767 North Lincoln Avenue
(773-506-0093)
A WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN
BROADCAST SEPTEMBER 28, 2007
Trattoria Trullo, at 4767 North Lincoln Avenue in Lincoln Square is part Italian specialty food mart, bar and restaurant.
The large dining room has whitewashed walls, and a comfortable small village atmosphere. That’s no accident when you consider that the restaurant takes its unusual name from the even more unusual trullos, or oddly shaped domed houses which are characteristic of one particular village in Puglia, on the Southeastern coast of the Italian boot.
The menu is as engaging as the restaurant’s decor, with service to match. Our server even drew a smiley face on our check, which I think fits in perfectly with Trullo’s sense of hospitality.
Among antipasti the choices number a dozen or more ranging from a plate of mixed Italian salami and cheeses, to crab cake with pesto aioli, as well as Sicilian style deep fried rice balls stuffed with sausage and peas.
With that and more, it gets a little difficult to make selections. We settled on mussels, simple enough with a red tomato sauce and a wealth of garlic and grated Parmesan cheese. Be sure to take crusts of bread to soak up the delicious sauce.
Moving to our pasta, the Trullo menu features several, including a house made cavatelli. This noodle is characterized by its by its rolled form, as if it had been shaped by a finger, which can be the case in more primitive recipes.
I like it for the chewy, almost dumpling like texture. The Trullo version features a sauce of tomatoes, basil, garlic, arugula and an aged ricotta cheese, characteristic of Puglia. You can hardly get more home made restaurant cooking than this!
As for entrees, we decided on veal marsala, perhaps not as original as some of the other choices. Still, the sauce was right and the meat tender. There’s a collection of desserts and some inexpensive regional wines.
Expect to spend about $75 a couple, but, if you like to split courses, as we sometimes do, you’ll spend less. Of course, that cuts your tasting options.
Trattoria Trullo is at 4767 North Lincoln Avenue in Lincoln Square, Parking can be tight. Trullo has a K/RATING of 19/20.
AMBIANCE 4/4 HOSPITALITY 5/5 FOOD 10/11
Read more Sherman Kaplan Restaurant Reviews at wbbm780.com and in
North Shore Magazine
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