The idea of fusing Indian and Latin American cuisines may seem like a stretch, but there’s no quibble with how it is done at Vermilion, at 10 West Hubbard Street. Vermilion ignores the standard Indian concept, replacing it with chic, modern decor, including hot vermilion accents, and stylish black and white fashion photos watching down on the dining room.
Our server was very interested in guiding us through the menu, offering selections here and there. As we sometimes do with a party of four, we’ll take an entree to share as an appetizer. Vermilion’s vegetarian baby eggplant and banana peppers worked fine, with a coconut milk based sauce easing the otherwise peppery sting.
Among the appetizers, or tapas,large sea scallops are seared with a crush of blue corn chip coating and seared on a puree that combines goat cheese and calabaza, a Latin American pumpkin.
Indian influence is brought in with a delicate use of peppercorns. There’s no shortage of complexity with the array of choices. Other first course options range from cheese filled empanada with lychee and jalapeno pepper sauce to tandoor lamb chops, to ahi tuna in a cilantro, red onion and lime marinade.
Diners could easily make a full dinner of two or three tapas.
But, that would be to ignore the entrees, which admittedly could be shared as we did. However, some dishes do not lend themselves to sharing, such as the Amazonian Seafood stew, but so what! Shrimp, mussels and a small lobster claw are awash in a delicious broth of fresh vegetables and complex flavors that bounce between spicy and sweet.
There’s a tandoor version of skirt steak for meat eaters with fried plantain chips and spicy pico-de gallo. Cross currents continue on the Vermilion menu with a filet mignon coated with an array of spices made into an Indian garam masala.
Peruvian style yucca helps to bridge the Indian and Latin attributes.
The complexity of the dinner menu continues with desserts. Vermilion is rather expensive for the privilege; about $90 a couple is not unusual. But, the cooking certainly is.
K/RATING of 18.5/20.
AMBIANCE 4/4 HOSPITALITY4.5/5 FOOD10/11
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