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  11:30am CDT, 05/16/08
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UNCOMMON GROUND

UNCOMMON GROUND
(773-465-9801)

A WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN

Some restaurants seem like an oasis in an unlikely location or neighborhood. Uncommon Ground at 1401 West Devon Avenue fits the description.

It’s a second spot for the Wrigleyville original, and  a Mecca for live entertainment on many evenings. The setting includes a bar lounge with upholstered seating. There’s a fireplace in one dining room, and another which serves as the entertainment venue.

The menu features upscale bistro fare. We began recently with a combo platter of Middle Eastern spreads and toasted pita. The pita is crunchy and warm against the cool, creamy texture of eggplant, herbed yogurt and hummos. I thought the pizza sounded too good to pass, with grape tomatoes, clusters of goat cheese, smoky mozzarella and gorgonzola  with pesto on a crust so crisp and bubbly that it was a complete and welcome surprise.

Just to gild our particular dining lily, we also ordered sea scallops. They came as a pair, a bit pricey at $15. But, the expected burst of  nautical flavor was fine. Tasso sausage crisps were an unusual, and tasty accompaniment

Bouillabaisse, at only $20 may lack the likes of crab and lobster. But, there is a wealth of shrimp, a few scallops and a cluster of mussels in a broth that is rich and deep with flavor. It’s a come back dish!

Buffalo Ribeye is notable for a couple of reasons. For one, there is no hint of the stronger flavor that buffalo can sometimes have compared to beef. Secondly, though rib eye is by nature somewhat fatty, once past gristle at the edges, this is completely satisfying and flavorful. The meat is plated with stacked French fries, and tangy onion confit.

Other main course choices include a clearly Americanized version of French Cassoulet, chicken stuffed with chorizo, and a pork chop glazed with ginger pear compote.

There are a few home made style desserts and a good wine and specialty beer list.  Service is friendly in a counter culture sort of way. Expect to spend about $65 a couple plus add ons. There is private parking. Uncommon Ground is at 1401 West Devon and  has a K/RATING of 17.5/20. 

AMBIANCE 4/4     HOSPITALITY 4.5/5     FOOD  9/11   


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