Cafe Bionda

CHICAGO (WBBM)  -- Cafe Bionda

1924 South State Street
(312) 326-9800

Even the best restaurants can have an off night. So it may have been with Café Bionda, at 1924 South State Street one recent evening. I had high hopes for this restaurant, teased by its look and aromas of a solid trattoria style. Nor was I disappointed, until a downhill spiral set in.
 

Before I tell you about the food, I should note that the problems we encountered may not have been so much because of a fairly inexperienced server, but from a kitchen expediter; at least, that’s my hunch.  All diners are greeted with excellent crusty bread and tomato seasoned dipping sauce which got my attention with promises of what was to come. Ordering a few antipasti only whetted my appetite for more.

Grilled calamari, octopus and shrimp met expectations and more, with a wonderful charred flavor and the zest of fresh lemon. The oddly named Mama’s Meatball salad was another delight, set with mixed greens and the ubiquitous house red sauce. Mussels, with crushed tomatoes, garlic and parsley were pulled easily from their shells to be gulped down.
 The Café Bionda menu speaks, not of pasta, but of Macaroni, accenting the home style Italian cooking. Linguine in white clam sauce was everything we might want it to be.

And, then, things turned South. It’s not unusual to have overcooked pasta; too many restaurants do it routinely. But, undercooked was a new experience, rigatoni like damp cardboard, with a pot roast gravy that was so good I was almost tempted to ignore the flaw.  However, back it went to the kitchen, only to show up on our bill at the end of the evening. It was one of a series of bumbles, including a delay between courses that suggests more a kitchen problem than our server.

The bottom line is that I would not hesitate going back. I firmly believe that our experience was the exception, not the rule. Bad luck for this restaurant critic, and Café Bionda.

I’m going to hold off on a K/RATING, because I do not think our experience was typical. Expect to spend about $60 a couple for three courses, plus add-ons..