It takes some effort to find the sign which identifies TAC Quick Thai, at 3930 North Sheridan Road. It’s worth that effort, for the discovery of one of Chicago’s dining secrets.
There are two menus. One is the standard variety listing most of what can be found at virtually any Thai restaurant. The other is quite different. If it is not offered, just ask for the Thai menu.
Unless you know Thai cuisine inside and out, these selections will be completely new to you. Fortunately, we were with people who know the restaurant well enough to have guided us to some exceptional choices.
The commonality of Thai cuisine is a reliance on fresh coriander, coconut milk, lime, basil, Thai chilies and a simply named, but complex fish sauce. It’s similar to that which informs Vietnamese cuisine, no surprise considering their geographic proximity.
For that matter, while Thai food has a certain unique quality, the influences from neighbors such as India and China are unmistakable. The result, especially at TAC Quick Thai is memorable.
Among highlights on our recent visit, fish maw salad has a perplexing name. It’s more or less a collection of shell fish and a sauce which at once hits the palate with a combination of chili pepper, tart citrus, cilantro, and even a light sweet flavor.
Deep-fried ground fish balls come with another sauce and can be eaten like snack food. Similarly, there is a version of beef jerky, but unlike anything conventional. Strips of dark meat are flavored with a rush of seasonings. Like the ground fish balls, these are eaten like snack foods.
For more substantial entrees. there is a stuffed omelet, which looks like something from the corner diner. However, slice into it and it’s filled with the makings of pud Thai.
A variety of curries bring their own influences and complexities to the table.
Be prepared for the unexpected and order one course after another through dessert. Chances are you won’t spend more than $45 a couple plus tax and tip. Parking can be tight.
TAC Quick Thai is at 3930 North Sheridan Road, is BYOB and has a K/RATING of 18.5/20.
•Ambiance 2.5/4
•Hospitality 5/5
•Food 11/11
Read more Sherman Kaplan Restaurant Reviews at wbbm780.com and in North Shore Magazine
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