Smoque
3800 North Pulaski
(773-545-7427)
www.smoquebbc.com

I know there are those who write essays, perhaps even poetry about the art of The American Barbecue. I appreciate that sort of zeal, even if my love of barbecue does not quite reach such fervent levels.

Still, I have to respect Smoque at 3800 North Pulaski, just South of the Kennedy Expressway. They make no bones about their love, dedication and commitment to barbecue, including a detailed manifesto posted on their website.

Without need for any more explanation, Smoque is a carryout barbecue shack with a handful of seats for those who want to eat there. It’s nothing fancy. You go up to the counter, place your order, wait for your number to be called, and then either take away, or find a place to sit.
   
Eating there is as basic as it can be. There are no plates, no tableware except for the plastic variety and paper napkins. Barbecue and sides are set on wax paper which covers your serving tray. When done, ball everything up and throw it into the trash.
 
The key to Smoque’s barbecued ribs, pulled pork, beef brisket and chicken, is the applewood smoker they use for slow cooking. Most of the cooking is done earlier in the day, with last minute finishing touches to freshen everything up. The owners, who have only been in the business for a few months, make everything in house.

Things are cheap enough that you can literally taste the entire menu for less than $50 bucks. Order a rib combo dinner, half a slab each of baby backs and St. Louis style ribs, add some beef brisket, either chopped or sliced, a little pulled pork, and half a barbecue chicken. Side dishes include barbecue beans, mac and cheese, fries, house slaw and cornbread, plus Smoque’s only dessert, a small timbale of peach cobbler
        
The barbecue sauces, of which there are two, have a distinctive vinegar foundation; the difference is that one sauce is a bit sweeter than the other.

Both work well, as does virtually everything we tasted. OK, the slaw and cobbler are a little weak, and maybe the cornbread, too, but that’s quibbling.

The bottom line is that Smoque is a lot of fun to visit, even with a twenty or thirty minute wait. Aside from sodas, it’s BYOB, but still great for families.

I won’t K/RATE Smoque, at 3800 North Pulaski, because it’s self serve, but I give it a full court press recommendation.