REGINA’S

A WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN

BROADCAST OCTOBER 26, 2007

            Regina’s at 27 West Campbell Street in Arlington Heights creates a close approximation of real family style Italian dining. The dining rooms are small, with only a few tables each. The swaged floral print curtains that frame doorways, wall decor and overall design underscore the atmosphere.

            But it is the aroma of garlic that puts the idea over the top, garlic and the red tomato sauce at the heart of the cooking.

            Sure, some of the cooking could use a bit of tweaking here and there, and portions are more in line with Chicago area tastes than those found in most any of Italy’s trattorias.

            Because portions are large, it may be prudent to split a pasta course, and then go on to entrees. But, if you start with an antipasto, choices include baked and stuffed artichokes, a couple of styles of bruschetta, baked clams or fried calamari.

            The pastas are a key to better Italian restaurants, and Regina’s meets the challenge. The gnocchi, which the menu describes as homemade, have that distinctive texture, though they could be perhaps a bit lighter, though they do pack a wallop in pure satisfaction.

            With either the standard house marinara or the house named Regina’s sauce they are delicious. That latter sauce is enriched with tomato pulp, onions and green peppers, not to mention garlic, of course.

            As for other pastas, we simply could not order everything on the menu, despite my desires. What I saw being taken to other tables looked terrific, and since I know the sauce is so good, there is no doubt about these other pastas.

            Among the chicken, fish, beef and veal entrees, our choice of veal Vesuvio was on the right track. It’s a derivation of classic chicken Vesuvio, but in this case the veal brings more finesse to the recipe.

            The wine list is well thought out, and reasonably priced. Our server seemed a bit formal at first, but brought knowledge and helpfulness.

Desserts include a towering cheesecake and chocolate tartuffo.. Expect to spend about $ 50 a couple plus add ons. Regina’s at 27 West Campbell Street in Arlington Heights has a K\RATING of  17.5/20.

AMBIANCE  4/4    HOSPITALITY  4/5    FOOD  9.5/11