A WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN BROADCAST MARCH 21, 2008
Omaggio, at 1639 Orrington Avenue in Evanston is a casual restaurant with marks of dark wood trim, a busy bar, and unexpected dining rooms discovered as one wanders into the unfolding space within.
This is not an American version of a traditional Italian trattoria, but rather a salumeria…for its purveyance of Italian chilled meats, cheeses and similar products.
One can pick and choose from a salumeria selection, while the regular menu is more extensive. Start with the Polenta Board. Creamy polenta is the centerpiece for a stylized mushroom tapanade, roasted bell peppers and nuggets of sausage spiced with fennel.
For other starters, a roster of pizzas includes expected toppings. The crusts are crispy and thin with clots of mozzarella cheese, basil and tomato sauce marking a traditional Margherita. Basil is the dominant flavor, a touch more sauce would add needed complexity.
From among the small list of pastas, w e tried gnocchi with toasted fontina cheese in a cream sauce. It cried out for cracked pepper, but our somewhat harried waiter seemed overwhelmed by the needs of a much larger party for me to even ask. It wasn’t his fault; Omaggio management should have provided more staff.
In fact, our server was as courteous as he could be taking orders, under the circumstances. However, backup support should have been more attentive to such needs as clean plates and tableware for each course.
Omaggio’s small entree menu includes a very good osso buco. Saffron threads were visible in an accompanying risotto. Strip sirloin was properly grilled as requested. Roasted chicken and au jus came with Vesuvio style roasted potatoes.
Grilled scallops were buttery sweet with a seared crust. Arugula for color and texture contrast completed the plating.
Among desserts, panna cotta is fine. There’s a good wine and drink list. You can leave your car with a valet, but if my unpleasant experience is typical , I suggest parking in a nearby public garage instead. Expect to spend about $70 a couple plus add ons. Omaggio is at 1639 Orrington in Evanston and has a K/RATING of 15/.20.
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