NICHE

A WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN

Nicheis the creationof owners and employees of a former Geneva restaurant coming together again to share camaraderie and go it on their own.

           
Chef  and co-owner Jeremy Lycan produces a regularly changing menu which  is far more sophisticated than the usual American Bistro fare, whatever that definition de jour may be.

           
Still in season if you hurry, Heirloom tomato salad is a lovely and fresh way to begin an evening’s dinner. Heirlooms practically burst alive with flavors. That burst is paired with Niche’s house made mozzarella and a reduced balsamic syrup. This holds the vinegar’s acidity in check against that of the tomato, though to be honest, I would like a bit more boldness as my personal taste.

           
Be that as it may, among other recent first course selections, roasted plum tomato soup imparts  a delicious, deepened flavor, while fresh basil brings some sweetness and shreds of roast crab add texture.

           
Rabbit sausage is another house favorite with whole grain mustard and chive butter. A bit of pear vinaigrette contributes its fruit.

           
For entrees, monkfish is roasted, glazed with a reduction of grapefruit pulp and enriched with a lobster bisque reduction. It’s a natural combination. Among other seafood selections  the texture of wild striped bass is showcased in a collection of vegetables reduced into a complex version of ratatouille, with a splash of roasted tomato broth taken from the kitchen’s soup tureen.

           
Meat eaters will find the likes of roasted breast of duck with a fruity blueberry reduction among components. New Zealand lamb chops are juicy fresh, flank steak is given an Oriental flavor, while a hearty grilled ribeye buffalo steak is marinated in spicy chimichurri sauce.

           
Deserts can be complex and sweet as an upscale version of s’mores or sophisticated as a cheese plate. Wines follow the American lead of the menu.
    
The dining room, is handsomely appointed in a contemporary, but conservative style and lends itself to conversation.

Expect to spend about $90 a couple for three courses plus add ons. Niche at 14 South 3^rd Street in Geneva has a K/RATING of  20/20.

AMBIANCE 4/4     HOSPITALITY 5/5    FOOD   11/11 

Read more Sherman Kaplan Restaurant Reviews at wbbm780.com and  in

North Shore Magazine