MYTHOS

A WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN

2030 W. Montrose Ave.
(773-334-2000)

 
The ancient Greeks gave us hyperbole and enthusiasm, two words which happen to describe the clutch of restaurants in Halsted Street's Greektown and the promotion which accompanies them as one restaurateur tries to out do the others.

Mythos, the newest Greek restaurant in Chicago is different. For one thing, it is at 2030 West Montrose, not Greektown. Secondly, it has, a noticeably more mannered style than its more prominent cousins.

Two sisters opened Mythos about a month ago. One does the cooking, the other runs the front, greets guests and sets a very welcoming tone. So does the menu, including its listing under specials for pastitsio, like mac and cheese with meat, Greek style. The menu listing called it “an absolute must have”.

Made to order, it came out about 25 minutes later in a clear glass bowl, something different to be sure. I took a taste, and then another. There was a burst of expected flavors, less aggressive than they might usually be. Abundant meat I learned later was ground Black Angus steak, clearly an upgrade from the more usual mix of lamb and beef.

For seafood, fresh broiled red snapper flakes well, with mild flavor tucked in virgin olive oil and lemon juice. A side of roasted potatoes has a crisp, flavorful glaze.

Among appetizers, zucchini and cheese keftides, much like fritters are light and fresh with a side of skordalia. The garlic flavoring was gentle,  the understatement that seems to be Mythos' culinary theme.

We also tasted gigandes, beans in a tomato and clove sauce with simmered onions, equally delicious. Not so incidentally, the bread comes from a nearby bakery, but is finished in the restaurant's ovens, for a real home made fresh touch.

Service is affable, but needs a little polish, not surprising for a restaurant this new. And, without valet service, parking can be tight. Expect to spend about $60 a couple plus tax and tip.

By the way, mid meal, Mythos' hostess and co-owner asked how I liked the pastitsio, and I responded positively that it was everything the menu promised. "Oh, I wish you were a restaurant critic!", she exclaimed.

 Mythos, at 2030 West Montrose is BYOB and has a K/RATING of  18.5/20

 
AMBIANCE  3.5/4   HOSPITALITY  4.5/5    FOOD  10.5/11