It’s a week after St. Patrick’s Day, and you may wonder why I am reviewing Mrs. Murphy’s Irish Bistro, at 3905 North Lincoln Avenue. I suppose you could call it the luck of the Irish.

The idea of a bistro and Irish food is an interesting, though unusual concept. Mrs. Murphy’s more or less puts it together.

Once past the foyer, there is a grand room, with an ornate carved wood bar. Several dining rooms run off this central area, some white table cloth setups and less formal, bare wood tables and seating in others.

The menu is rather elaborate, and in some cases, flawed.  Mrs. Murphy’s Shepherd’s Pie is virtually forgettable, a pottage of too much mashed potatoes on top, and not enough flavor for lamb and vegetables underneath. Someone in the kitchen needs to learn about seasoning.

The same can be said for the vastly overpriced Irish fish soup. It’s way too bland with a broth that holds not nearly enough soft and shell fish to justify its $30 price.

 There are some things to like about Mrs. Murphy’s. Scallops are painted with pale green aoili, seared to a lovely golden brown, with tomatoes, fingerling potatoes and a bit of lemon basil seasoning. Braised duck breast is served with a dried fruit chutney among accompaniments. I would have liked it better had the duck been roasted a bit less for more juice and flavor.

Among appetizers, mussels in apple cider laced broth are quite tasty and plump. Similarly, boxty potatoes, an Irish griddle cake is handsomely presented with strips of smoked salmon and dabs of creme fraiche.

There’s a good list of brews and even some wines. Service is accommodating. Expect to spend about $70 a couple; skip the fish stew and it will be less. Mrs. Murphy’s Irish Bistro is at 3905 North Lincoln Avenue and has a K/RATING of 15.5/20