MACHU PICCHU

 BY SHERMAN KAPLAN

BROADCAST AUGUST 17, 2007

One of Chicago’s attractions is our dynamic growth of ethnic restaurants. Among them is Machu Picchu Peruvian at 3856 North Ashland Avenue.

A wall size mural of the famed Incan ruins from which the restaurant takes its name covers one wall. Tables are simply appointed, and there is a bar, though Machu Picchu is a BYOB restaurant.

           
Peruvian food takes influences of course from its indigenous Incan culture as well as that of the Spanish Conquistadors, even Japanese. The menu is fairly easy to traverse. Begin with an empanada, a pastry dumpling with a savory ground meat filling with raisins and onions.

           
Potatoes were a gift of the Andean peoples to the rest of the culinary world, though that gift admittedly came at the cost of an indigenous civilization destroyed by Spanish invaders. Be that as it may, we can still enjoy Papa Rellena, deep fried mashed potato puffs with stuffing of meat and onions. I love the creamy texture, which reminds me of French potatoes Dauphin.

           
Order one seafood salad and get enough marinated octopus, shrimp and other nauticals to satisfy a quartet of diners. Compliment that with the house ceviche mixto, various seafood cooked, as it were, in the juice of fresh lime, with Peruvian chilies adding their own bite.

           
Among entrees, sautéed shrimp in garlic sauce is delicious from among variations that include shrimp steamed in beer, shrimp in walnut cream sauce, or shrimp in tomato and white wine.

           
Churrasco grilled sirloin is classic South American beef, while in another entree, strips of sautéed beef with onion, tomatoes and a mound of fried potatoes represents a classic Peruvian approach.

           
Chicken includes one recipe in Peruvian spices, as well as the poultry in wine sauce, sautéed with onions, or chicken and rice cooked in a varietal Peruvian beer brewed from corn.

           
Service is adequate, but requires some patience. Friday and Saturday evenings, the restaurant features live musicians. Expect to spend about $40 per couple, plus tax and tip. Machu Picchu Peruvian restaurant is at 3856 North Ashland Avenue and has a K/RATING of 17/20.