LA MADIA

A WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN

(312-329-0400)

Once upon a time it was small plates, then sushi. Now, the restaurant trend de jour  in Chicago is thin crust pizza.

           
The current rush has presented mostly good choices. The differences seem more about style and presentation than any wide qualitative variation. After all, there’s just so much you can do with a hot oven, dough and toppings.

            Among the newbies, La Madia, at 59 West Grand calls itself a “contemporary pizzeria” a description which by and large fits. There’s nothing in its decor that screams out pizza, and in fact, you have to look closely at the open kitchen before you might spot the wood fired oven.

           
La Madia is also a wine bar, with a circular space near the entryway, and a ubiquitous flat screen TV tuned to a sports channel. Further back, seating is comfortable and room ambiance is conversation friendly.

           
The menu begins with a handful of pre pizza starters. Among them, roasted artichokes showed some promise. I would have liked more in the way of lush silkiness. But, sauces, one red pepper based, the other garlic and oil, were fine accents.

           
Each of La Madia’s dozen or so pizzas is large enough for two diners, if you have add ons, even a pasta. The first we tasted brought roasted mushrooms in a sea of melted pecorino cheese. It’s a bit salty, but fresh ground pepper brings balance.

           
The second taste was quite unusual with roasted grapes and taleggio cheese. The grapes lent a sweet flavor burst complimented by the more neutral taleggio. Crusts were fine, crisp and bubbled at the edges, less firm at center.

           
As for pastas, our choice of fresh pappardelle with shrimp was hit and miss. All the shrimp were overcooked to a fault. The pasta, on the other hand, was pleasantly al dente.

           
For dessert, pear crostata has a delicious flaky crust, butter cookies are so-so, and the fresh gelato, creamy rich.

           
Several wines are offered by the glass, more by bottle. Expect to spend about $55 a couple plus add ons. La Madia is at 59 West Grand and has a K/RATING of 18/20.

AMBIANCE 4/4    HOSPITALITY 5/5     FOOD   9/11