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Posted: Friday, 06 July 2007 11:30AM

Hing Kee

HING KEE
A WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW

(312-808-9538)
2140 South Archer Avenue



The last time we did a ramble around Chinatown it was the heart of Winter, a time when escaping from the wind blown street to a warm restaurant hit the spot. This time, the temperature was in the 80s, and it gave the opportunity to be a tourist in our own city.

           
The South Archer Chinatown Mall is a fascinating place to roam, peeking in windows until you decide where to stop for something to eat. We  ended up at Hing Kee, a restaurant more Vietnamese than Chinese, at 2140 South Archer Avenue

           
A large display of fresh fruits and vegetables takes up part of one wall behind a work area. A glance at the menu reveals that specialties include all manner of sweetened smoothies, tropical fruit shakes, and other delights to cool off on a hot summer night.

           
Plunging right in, we were tempted by the broad choice of phos, the characteristic Vietnamese beef noodle soup. But, holding that thought for colder weather, we ordered chilled spring rolls,. They  are filled with minced meat and shrimp, strands of rice vermicelli, lettuce and what tasted like licorice, but could have been a form of basil.

           
Beef dumplings are pan fried, good enough with or without a dipping sauce. We were similarly intrigued by an egg pancake with scallions. I wish I could duplicate the consistency at home, a soft and yielding pancake with subtle flavors.

           
The hit of the appetizers was fried sweet potatoes with  shrimp. Just pick these up and eat from hand to mouth like popcorn.

           
Tasting entrees, Pud Thai was on the menu, and  was not up to what is found in true Thai restaurants. But, catfish in a clay pot is the real deal. Chicken with Chow Fun noodles was the only Chinese order at our table and completely enjoyable. While that is fairly mild, sliced chicken with lemon grass is spicy, but, with a more complex flavor.

           
About $35 a couple should do it. Hing Kee is at 2140 South Archer in the Chinatown Archer Mall and has a K/RATING of 16/20.

AMBIANCE 3/4    HOSPITALITY 5/5    FOOD  8/11   


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