HOPLEAF
(773-334-9851)

A WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN

BROADCAST MARCH 14, 2007

Irish pubs in Chicago will be slammed this St .Patrick’s Day weekend. So, be a contrarian and try  Hopleaf, at 5148 North Clark Street in Andersonville.

            
Sure, street parking is tight, there are no reservations and the host/bouncer wears a nose ring. But, is that anything to hold against a restaurant?

OK, the parking and no reservations policy go against my grain, but I’ll still take Hopleaf for its exceptionally good food. It’s a terrific menu based largely on Belgian specialties. Speaking of which, mussels and fries are a must. 

They come in a cast iron kettle, with a side of fries and garlic aioli. The mussels are steamed in white wine or pale ale with seasonings. The taste is exceptional. Take crusts of freshly warmed rolls to get the last of the shallot, garlic and butter broth.

            
Follow the mussels with a specialty salad. Recently, mixed greens were coupled to creamy goat cheese. Other appetizer choices include fried quail in curry sauce, a bit on the rich side if you ask me.

But, that’s the nature of Hopleaf cooking, the real deal that takes no prisoners. In other words, politically correct dining is not a Hopleaf option.

Granted that  Montreal Smoked Brisket Sandwich is billed as organic. But, there’s a full toned smoky flavor and layers of thick sliced beef with tangy mustard on sourdough or rye.

            
As for entrees, steak and fries is right out of Brussels’ Grand Place, while Flemish beef stew explores another aspect of the Belgian cuisine. For a bit of game, rabbit legs come in a rich sauce of ale, bacon, mushrooms and a Brussels Sprout fricassee that is worth fighting over.

           
Among other options,  Dover Sole is sautéed in olive oil, stacked with translucent  leek slices in cream sauce. Venison meat loaf with root vegetables is another part of the full flavored Hopleaf style.

For dessert, don’t miss the apple fritters with mascarpone cheese sauce. The wine and beer lists are formidable. Expect to spend about $55 a couple for three courses, plus add ons. Hopleaf at 5148 North Clark Street has a K/RATING of 18.5/20.

AMBIANCE  3.5.4   HOSPITALITY 4/4    FOOD  11/11   

Read more Sherman Kaplan Restaurant Reviews at wbbm780.com and  in

North Shore Magazine