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35 West Ontario
BROADCAST APRIL 6, 2007
The whim of its pseudo-farm decor sets the tone for an evening of grazing at Graze, at 35 West Ontario. Wooden flowers with sunburst faces, fence posts and a playful bucolic mood greet diners in a room where its sophisticated bar and 100 bottle wine list gives a more pointed clue toward expectations.
Chef Bob Zrenner brings what he has learned from such restaurants as Tru and North Pond, combining that experience with his own intuitions, to create Graze’s small plate menu
We began with an eclectic grouping. Spain’s Manchego cheese is paired with the sharp taste of granny smith apples, brought into context by a dashing lemon vinaigrette. Tuna tartare is plated with an Asian citrus fruit called yuzu and wasabi infused caviar.
Other first course choices include delicious grilled octopus served cold with yellow grape tomatoes and lemon garlic dressing. A traditional Caesar Salad is elegant, contrasting to the otherwise farmer rube whimsy.
Warm plates include grilled beef short ribs with a sweet sauce glazing the bones.
Small pizzas are worth the temptations. We were delighted with the unusual topping of sweetened cubed pumpkin and creme fraiche with sage. Other options include Prince Edward Island mussels with a quartet of sauces, a selection of soups and delicious fried artichoke hearts with panko crumb crusts.
Among entree choices, fried perch reminds me how fortunate to be along the Great Lakes. Seared sea scallops are informed by the juice of blood orange and a parsnip puree. Grilled lamb comes on skewers alternating with sugar glazed cippolinis.
Other choices range from meatloaf wrapped in bacon, to ravioli filled with mint and mushrooms to the Take me Out to the Ball Game collection: a small hot dog, hamburger, nachos and crackerjacks, which I am guessing do not come out of the box.
Pastries and desserts are all created in house. Unfortunately, there is no valet parking. Expect to spend about $60 a couple plus add ons.
K/RATING of 18/20 AMBIANCE 3.5/4 HOSPITALITY 5/5 FOOD 9.5/11
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