Considering the prodigious portions so many Italian-American restaurants thrust at diners, the idea of smaller plates and Italian food may seem incompatible. The fact is that smaller sized portions are the way foods are often prepared and served in many trattorias in Italy.

           
The successful Chicago chain of Italian-American restaurants spawned by Mia Francesca on Clark some years ago, by and large follows the “more is better” concept. But, there is an exception at Francesca’s Forno at 1576 North Milwaukee Avenue.

           
The restaurant seats about 70 in an unpretentious space marked by the old style of a pressed tin ceiling and dark woods. A wood fired oven is at the heart of the open kitchen, giving actual meaning to the Italian word “forno” in the restaurant’s name.

           
That wood fired oven is put to excellent use with a quintet of pizzas .We ordered one with fleshy wild mushrooms and tallagio cheese, as well as caramelized onions and a heady whiff of truffle oil. The crust is typically bubbly around the edges and holds up well supporting its toppings, without becoming soft or rubbery. Taste, of course is what it’s all about, and there’s no problem at all.

           
The Francesca’s Forno menu begins with other antipasti and salads with choices that range from tuna in a “puttanesca” style, with olives, garlic, tomatoes, and capers  among ingredients to a pleasant seasonal salad of grilled asparagus and arugula topped with a fried sunny side up egg; truffle oil adds its flavor accent.

           
Moving into pasta and other small plate courses, linguini and shrimp in peppery Fra Diavolo style is almost ideal. In addition to a few other pasta recipes, there is always a risotto of the day.

           
Among meats, cut up pieces of chicken breast meat are set with a sauce that brings together the usual tomatoes, garlic and basil with dabs of gummy melted mozzarella.

           
This is not especially serious dining, nor should there be any expectation of anything otherwise. Francesca’s Forno, at 1576 North Milwaukee Avenue fills the bill for quick and casual. Expect to spend about $50 a couple, plus add ons. There is valet parking on weekends.  

Francesca’s Forno has a K/RATING of 17.5/20.

AMBIANCE 3.5/4   HOSPITALITY 5/5    FOOD   9/11