(773-751-1500) 600 North Lincoln Avenue BROADCAST JANUARY 19, 2007
Fiddlehead Café seems themed to a “less is more” approach, where complexity is incidental, if not accidental.
As for specifics, an appetizer of seared sea scallops brings three tiny rounds, with slices of grilled chanterelles and cubes of roast pumpkin. There is a trace of brown butter, but not much. The result is generally a culinary success, though the portion seems a bit stingy for its price.
Another starter, flatbread with ricotta cheese, truffle oil and arugula is more accurately flabby bread. It loses its crisp character, though the flavors are very rewarding.
House made potato chips with blue cheese aoili is much ado about nothing. A skimpy portion of chips tastes not much different than bagged. Call the dip aoili if you must, but it’s still mayonnaise.
As for entrees, grilled skirt steak and fries is passable. I would have liked more meaty flavor. Braised lamb in risotto has gobs of flavor, all to the good. But, the presentation is like beige mush, which could use dressing up. How about a bold colored serving bowl, rather than standard issue stark white?
Whitefish is flavored with small cippolinis, roasted mushrooms and blood orange slices among ingredients. It’s not as flavorful as it the description suggests. Roasted trout with orange brown butter on couscous among components is the better fish choice.
Form followed function for our dessert choice. What else could explain an apple tart with nothing to bind ingredients together, save for the sparse juice of cooked apples, candied pecans, a breath of cinnamon and a small mound of vanilla ice cream within the confines of a uncomplicated baked crust?
The wine list is accessible, and flights are featured. Service is quite good, but parking is difficult; the restaurant clearly needs valet service to attract all but neighbors. Expect to spend about $65 a couple for three courses plus add ons.
Fiddlehead Café is at 4600 North Lincoln Avenue and has a K/RATING of 14.5/20. Read more Sherman Kaplan Restaurant Reviews at wbbm780.com and in North Shore Magazine
St. Pat's Homecoming Mass
There won't be any Masses this Sunday at Chicago's Old St. Pat's Catholic Church, the city's oldest public building. WBBM’s Bernie Tafoya found out why.
Amtrak
With Amtrak there are no tolls, traffic or weather issues to deal with. Just big, comfortable seats and miles of breathtaking views and spend real quality time with family and friends. Call Amtrak at 1-800-USA-RAIL or click on our web link.
WBBM-AM 780 has been the consistent all news radio voice in Chicagoland for over 35 years and is now streaming online for free. Listen online to Chicago news as it happens around the clock, along with Chicago traffic, Chicago weather, Chicago sports and Chicago business. Subscribe to WBBM's free podcasts for additional Chicago business and Chicago community reports and listen to Chicago news on demand. WBBM news radio is also the home for Chicago Bears, Chicago Auto Show and Chicago Air & Water Show. www.wbbm780.com
