COAL FIRE PIZZA

A WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN

BROADCAST NOVEMBER 9, 2007
(312-226-2625)

           
I’m not personally invested in the passionate discussion among pizza lovers over whether the best are baked in gas, wood or coal fired ovens. Natural gas produces the hottest temperatures, wood seems to have some sort of back to nature nostalgic romance, while coal raises eyebrows of those who might not even be aware that it is a credible fuel for pizza ovens.

           
It’s an east coast tradition, especially in urban New England. The claimed advantage of using coal is its even distribution of heat. Chicago now has the  appropriately named Coal Fire Pizza, at 1321 West Grand. It’s a tiny neighborhood place, a few tables, plus carryout.

           
The question now remains as to whether a coal fired oven baked pizza is noticeably different or better. The answers are yes, no, and maybe. The crust is bubbly, charred here and there, and to appearance looks like Indian nan. The  flavor is neutral, crisp on the edges, and soft at the center.

           
The closest Coal Fire Pizza comes to trendy is with its white quartet of melted cheeses, mozzarella, ricotta, Parmesan and Romano. The menu says there’s tomato sauce, but I did not see or taste any. The flavor is soft, like mild cheese, with eating pleasure derived from the gooey meltdown.

           
The pizzas at Coal Fire are not meant to duplicate their Italian cousins. Ingredients, from sauce, to flour, to toppings, are American products. The Margherita  pizza is a little dry for my taste; I’d prefer somewhat more sauce. But, the flavors otherwise are standout, and this would be my comeback pizza.

           
Other choices include Napoli, with anchovies, Fiorentino with hot salami and roasted red peppers, or pizzas that include toppings of  sausage, pepperoni or  thin sliced prosciutto. In addition to the half dozen or so pizza toppings, the menu is rounded out by a couple of salads including a tasty caprese with fresh rounds of buffalo mozzarella and a very good balsamic dressing.

           
There’s really too little here to K/RATE, but enough to draw attention, especially among those curious about this east coast import style. Coal Fire Pizza is at 1321 West Grand and is recommended. Forget about reservations or valet parking, and it’s closed on Monday. And, It’s strictly BYOB.