1846 North Milwaukee Avenue
773-384-8911
Broadcast February 16, 2007

CHICAGO (WBBM Newsradio 780) -- From economics professor to restaurant kitchen is an unlikely path. But, it’s the one Chicago Chef Charlie Socher took, and the one that has led him for the past several years to his excellent French bistro, Café Matou, at 1846 North Milwaukee Avenue. Socher has actually been cooking in Chicago for longer than his youth would seem to indicate, and I have pleasantly experienced his work at many restaurants, including Café Matou.

Our most recent visit was as rewarding as I remembered, maybe even more so. For one thing, it is relatively quiet, with none of the din that seems to be part and parcel of contemporary dining. Tables are well spaced allowing for conversation without shouting.
Actually, Socher’s cooking is worth a shout or two. His menu changes nightly, but I suspect any evening would be well representative of his talents. His approach often reflects traditional French country cooking.

On the other hand, things can become more sophisticated, as a cream carrot puree with ginger demonstrates. Among other starters, small Spanish red peppers are stuffed with goat cheese, in what amounts to a rather sophisticated take on chile rellenos. A flavorful tomato coulis is part of the presentation.

As for entrees, roast chicken is not to be missed. He works a mix of butter, tarragon, garlic, onion and a bit of Cognac, then spreads it under the skin. This allows the flavors to simmer with the natural juice of the poultry. The result is a subtle, yet effusive flavoring.

I rarely see goose on any restaurant menu. Larousse Gastronomic, the classic volume of French cookery devotes more than three closely typed pages to goose and its various preparations. In wintry weather as Chicago has endured over past weeks, Café Matou warms to the challenge with Socher’s version of roast goose. Recently, he brought in hot French apple cider to infuse a sauce.

As for meats, Beef Burgundy was the perfect example of Socher’s respect for regional French recipes. . Chunks of meat with onions, garlic and chunky potatoes were in a dark wine inspired sauce rich with flavors.

His seafood can be equally fascinating, whether it be Pacific mahi mahi with Béarnaise or poached salmon with Chablis in a cream sauce.

Desserts may include poached pears with ice cream, creme brulee or chocolate and banana bread pudding among nightly choices. The wine list is reasonably priced. Service and hospitality can hardly be better. Expect to spend about $70 a couple for three courses, plus add ons. Café Matou is at 1846 North Milwaukee Avenue and has a K/RATING of 20/20.

AMBIANCE 4/4   
HOSPITALITY 5/5  
FOOD 11/11 
K/RATING 20/20

Read more Sherman Kaplan Restaurant Reviews in North Shore Magazine