SHERMAN KAPLAN’S  2007 BEST RESTAURANTS

BROADCAST ON NEWSRADIO 780 WBBM

DECEMBER  28, 2007

ADDIS ABEBA  1322 CHICAGO AVENUE, EVANSTON; 847-328-5422 or 328-5411

thiopian food is meant to be eaten out of hand wrapped in fermented bread called injera.  At Addis Abeba the  best flavors are found in lamb stew and a classic chicken dish called doro wat. Another stew, chunked white fish in spices and vegetables is quite good, as is a vegetarian recipe centered around zucchini, with carrots and potatoes in a mild gravy.

CAFÉ MATOU 1846 NORTH MILWAUKEE AVENUE; 773-384-8911

Chef-Owner  Charlie Socher’s menu changes nightly. His approach often reflects traditional French country cooking. Roast chicken is not to be missed. He  works together a mix of butter, tarragon, garlic, onion and a dash of Cognac, then spreads it under the skin. Beef Burgundy is  the perfect example of Socher’s respect for regional French recipes. The wine list is exceptional.

DAVIS STREET FISHMARKET 501 DAVIS STREET, EVANSTON; 847-869-3474

The Davis Street Fishmarket benefits from a fairly recent remodeling and expansion. Think of most any commonly edible fish or shellfish, and if in season, it’s likely to be on the menu. There are several creative recipes ranging from versions of BBQ shrimp to linguini with clams and white sauce to  the  house version of Crawfish etoufee which to my taste,  is a standout!

FRIENDSHIP CHINESE  2830 NORTH MILWAUKEE AVENUE; 773-227-0970

The care and evident thought given to the beauty of Friendship’s  decor suggests that something akin will similarly strike diners. Honey walnut shrimp is presented in a creamy sauce that coats the large shrimp and crunchy walnuts. Among other seafood choices, curry lime salmon is surprisingly delicate, but still vivid in flavors. Peking Duck is non traditional, with its Grand Marnier infused sauce.

THE GAGE  24 SOUTH MICHIGAN AVENUE; 312-372-2979

Chef Dirk Flangan’s menu goes far beyond the comfort food which The Gage suggests in appearance. The approach is imaginative, but not cutting edge by choice, I am certain. Among starters, there’s a fried cake of smoked haddock and peeky toe crab, or smoked prosciutto  piled high like so much corned beef with a toasty French baguette that stretches from here to there and back again. The Gage has saddle of roast elk among entrees. You have to work at it because of the bones around a central core, but it’s worth the effort.

GREEK VILLAGE TAVERNA  795 EAST GOLF ROAD, SCHAUMBURG; 847-885-4950

Schaumburg is a long way from Halsted Street’s Greektown, but nonetheless, Greek Village Taverna  is a bustling and sprawling restaurant in the Greek-American tradition.  Seafood choices range from individual fillets of snapper, sea bass, salmon and the like, to a combination platter. As for meats, lamb is always a good selection.

MAY STREET CAFÉ  1146 WEST CERMAK; 312-441-4442

The Café’s Pan-Latino menu includes truly special  tortilla soup, enriched by sour cream and avocados in a spiced tomato cream broth with chunks of grilled chicken. Among specialty entrees, la pina de la playa is centered on Spanish rice with shrimp and bay scallops in a sauce that collects the flavors of  mild chipotle peppers and savory coconut, served in an open half of grilled pineapple. For vegetarians, Chile Rellenos is excellent with Chihuahua cheese inside a poblano pepper fried in a creamy egg batter. Mango flan for dessert is Killer!

NICHE  14 SOUTH  THIRD STREET, GENEVA; 630-262-1000

The  regularly changing menu is far more sophisticated than the usual American Bistro fare. For starters, roasted plum tomato soup imparts  a delicious, deepened flavor, while fresh basil brings sweetness and shreds of roast crab add texture. Meat eaters will find the likes of roasted breast of duck with a fruity blueberry reduction among components. New Zealand lamb chops are juicy fresh, flank steak is given an Oriental flavor, while a hearty grilled ribeye buffalo steak is marinated in spicy chimichurri sauce.

OLE’ OLE’  5413 NORTH CLARK STREET; 773-293-2222

The menu is Nuevo Latino, where a collection of appetizers and tapas would make a perfect meal. The Ceviche is vibrant with texture and flavor, clearly resonating fresh limes which provide the acid to cook the collection of shrimp, calamari and scallops. Entrees run a broad gamut centered on, but not exclusively Mexican influences. Beef and pork fanciers will not be disappointed with the likes of churrasco style steak or pork loin bathed in  honeyed chipotle sauce. There’s  a wide choice of seafood, even a style of paella.

ROYAL THAI  2209 WEST MONTROSE; 773-509-0007

           
The menu is not unlike  other storefront Thai restaurants, but the cooking excellence is far and away above most. There are several styles of egg rolls or more delicate spring rolls, even a couple of tempura choices. Other selections include grilled chicken on skewers with some of the tastiest peanut sauce I’ve found. There are a handful of seafood entrees, including a curry. If curry’s put you off because of spices and peppers, the kitchen will hold back a tad on the seasonings. Even simple fried rice has a luxuriously rich quality.

SU-RA KOREAN; 2257 WEST NORTH AVENUE; 773-276-9450

           
Su-Ra is as stylish and hip a Korean restaurant to be found in Chicago, a far cry from the usual store front Korean eatery.  Among appetizers, Korean pancakes with sliced scallions are fun for sharing. The entree specialty seems to be Bi Bim Bop, normally a not very complex bowl of steamed white rice topped with a fried egg and mixed vegetables. Su-Ra uses healthier  brown rice and offers six different versions, some seeming to take aspects from other Korean restaurant standards.

TRULLO  4767 NORTH LINCOLN AVENUE, 773-506-0093

Trattoria Trullo  is part Italian specialty food mart, bar and restaurant. You can hardly find more home made restaurant cooking than this! Antipasti  choices number a dozen or more, from a plate of mixed Italian salami and cheeses, to crab cake with pesto aioli, as well as Sicilian style deep fried rice balls stuffed with sausage and peas.  A  house made cavatelli pasta  is characterized by its chewy, almost dumpling like texture with a sauce of tomatoes, basil, garlic, arugula and an aged ricotta cheese.

VERMILION 10 WEST HUBBARD STREET; 866-354-9283

           
The idea of fusing Indian and Latin American cuisines may seem like a stretch, but there’s no quibble with how it is done at Vermilion. Among the appetizers, sea scallops are seared with a crush of blue corn chip coating and seared  on a puree that combines goat cheese and calabaza, a Latin American pumpkin. Indian influence is brought in with a delicate use of peppercorns. Cross currents continue on the Vermilion menu with filet mignon coated in an array of spices made into an Indian garam masala. Peruvian style yucca helps to bridge the Indian and Latin attributes.

Read more Sherman Kaplan Restaurant Reviews at wbbm780.com and  in

North Shore Magazine