A MANO

A WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN

335 North Dearborn
(312-629-3500)

BROADCAST JANUARY 11, 2008

            The open kitchen  at  A Mano, at 335 North Dearborn is almost an in your face approach, especially if diners are seated on that side where the expediter checks and passes through every order as it comes out to diners.

            It’s noisy, a supplement to the energy which A Mano otherwise generates through its food, drink and service. There is somewhat quieter dining in an adjacent lounge, but I’ll still recommend seating up close and kitchen personal.

            The restaurant’s name, A Mano, means “by hand” and it is clear that food preparation is not an impersonal endeavor. The restaurant has a look very much like that of a typical Roman trattoria and a menu to match.

            Begin with several of the reasonably priced antipasti, depending upon the size of your dining party. Grilled octopus is smoky and tender. Roasted red peppers have zest, which contrasts with milder goat cheese as part of its presentation. Other firsts range from a variety of Italian cured meats to a good selection of fresh seafood from the A Mano raw bar.

            I tasted  a Margherita pizza, one of a dozen or so choices. The crust is wood charred at the edges, the toppings blend classic taste together.

            A Mano’s take on rural Tuscan bread soup called Ribolitto, which literally means “re-boiled” is really more of a stew, characterized by chunks of stale bread along with tomatoes, garlic  and lots of chopped vegetables. It needs ample grated cheese for a real flavor zing.

            As for seafood, monkfish is substantial with the addition of fennel sausage, ahi tuna is wrapped in prosciutto in a Saltimbocca style.  Meat eaters can dig into a large grilled pork chop with apples and endive, while seared chicken breast is paired with Sardinian fregola, a style of cous cous, and honey roasted cipollini onions. Among desserts, gelato has a fresh flavor.

Service is exceptional and there is valet parking. Expect to spend about $60 a couple plus add ons. A Mano is at 335 North Dearborn and has a K/RATING of 18/20.

AMBIANCE 4/4    HOSPITALITY 5/5    FOOD  9/11